Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
